Clutch advice (semi-stock, lightened flywheel...)

[SplitInfinity]

Hey there. So, basically I had my clutch replaced about 37k miles ago. It has started slipping again... and I'm suffering through accelerating like I'm asleep at the wheel. =)
I have a few questions... I've been researching it and trying to figure out what to do, but would like some advice for my specific situation from those who have already been here.
I would like to put something better in - if it pays off in clutch wear vs cost (I can't afford to do this every 2 years!).

I basically bought this car (aside from safety, appearance & such) because I love the way it accelerates.
I drive carefully, don't speed a lot and follow the flow if I have to. But, if there is an open lane and no one in front of me... I pretty much always launch it hard and accelerate more or less as fast as possible. (From a stop, rev to about 3k on stock flywheel, and 4-5k on current 10lb flywheel before slipping it...).
My car is mechanically stock for the most part (2003 WRX, aside from coilovers, strut supports, 10lb flywheel, & 18" 225's).

Currently seems to slip in 2nd/3rd/4th gear, probably mostly in 3rd... when I'm accelerating semi-hard and the turbo kicks in. Not real bad yet, I can drive it carefully with out a problem, just sucks driving so slow. =)

Should I go stage 2? (or is there another better clutch option that won't kill the transmission with better wear than stock?)
I replaced my clutch around 37k miles ago, and I'm already slipping. Considering upgrading to a stage 2 clutch - or something rated for heavier wear.
I know I was told last time that I would hate driving a stock car with a stage two clutch in traffic... hence I skipped it and went with a stock clutch.
I know it's a lot to ask but does anyone have a ~stock car sporting a stage two clutch that would be willing to meet me for a drive around the block once or twice? (I'm out of town for Thanksgiving...)
...so I can get an idea as to how difficult to drive it in traffic would actually be. This is my daily driver.

If I do go stage 2, or something other than stock... what clutch should I go for?
Budget is certainly an issue, but I'm for quality and durability too... (I think my mechanic quoted about 500 for install - guaranteed work, not including parts, stock clutch was about 300 from him.)

Fly Wheel... I also had a lightened (10 instead of 20lb) flywheel put in with the last clutch. Racing flywheel... revs are awesome, but the inertia sucks... used to launch at 3k, now I have to rev it up to 4-5k to get a more or less equivelent amount of acceleration.
I paid a chunk for the fly wheel... I hate to dump it, spend more on another one and go back to slow revs (1 sec to 3k!), but the launching was nicer, and the more important question is will it improve my clutch wear etc?
(Thinking if I do need a new flywheel I'll see if a 15lb option is available - something in between the two.)
Most of what I've read suggested that it should be machinable, I'm driving carefully now that I'm sure it's slipping trying to preserve it, and I don't remember the exact cost, but another flywheel at 300-500 makes a big difference in killing my budget...

Also this question is a long shot (fairly certain my clutch is on its way out), but a coworker who is into cars suggested asking about it. I haven't been able to find any reference to such an adjustment online.
Does the 2003 WRX have a hydrolic clutch adjustment? (possible correction for slipping, is it possible that it's an adjustment, and my clutch is okay? Long shot... I know...)

Thank you very much for reading it over and any helpful suggestions you can make!

Excited to be able to drive her right again...

[Justin 05 Sti]

I pretty much always launch it hard and accelerate more or less as fast as possible. (From a stop, rev to about 3k on stock flywheel, and 4-5k on current 10lb flywheel before slipping it...).

Is there any chance you have an oil leak that's getting to the clutch?

If not, it sounds like you just slip / ride it a lot and are wearing out the disc. You could try a puck style to see if it lasts any longer. Or just learn to drive it nicer.

[SplitInfinity]

Is there any chance you have an oil leak that's getting to the clutch?

If not, it sounds like you just slip / ride it a lot and are wearing out the disc. You could try a puck style to see if it lasts any longer. Or just learn to drive it nicer.

I don't believe so, although I will double check. I haven't checked it in a bit, but I haven't been low on oil at all on previous checks.

I do often slip it fairly hard, which to me is the whole point of a fun car. I don't get people who buy a WRX and then get up to speed 2 miles down the road. I don't ride it at all. I always try to let it out fairly quickly, don't ever sit on a hill and feather it to hold my position etc...

Thanks for the suggestion though. Any specific clutch recommendations from someones experience with clutch longevity?

-MJ.

[VF34RX]

Should you get a stg 1 or 2 clutch kit with a full face disc - Yes
should you get rid of that lightened flywheel for a stock one - Yes
Should you go Stg 2 performance wise - Yes if you haven't

But from personal experience i highly suggest staying with the stock flywheel. There are other ways to free up rev's and lightening the rotating assembly. I absolutely hated taking off from a stop with that light flywheel. It took so much to get moving it was ridiculous. Yeah the faster revving was nice but not worth it for the difficult take off's. Keep the stock flywheel, upgrade the clutch and add more power. You will be much happier.
Not to mention my new clutch has lasted much longer since i got rid of the light flywheel.

[NoAffiliationSTi]

oh john...you and your bad experience with the lightened flywheel... driven on mine for almost 3 years now with no issues....it will just have to go away in the spring or so when I get a twin disc setup

[VF34RX]

oh john...you and your bad experience with the lightened flywheel... driven on mine for almost 3 years now with no issues....it will just have to go away in the spring or so when I get a twin disc setup

Oh i didnt know your STi had a 2.0L in there. They are completely different motors. The 2.5 has alot more torque and is alot easier to drive. It also gives you some room to lighten and still stay fairly drivable.

Seriously though, if you would have drove my car when it was on there you would have hated it.

[slowagon]

not to sound like a smart ass but stop launching hard. i put 122,000 miles on a STOCK clutch on a stg2 car and only reason i changed it is when i rebuilt the transmisison and it still looks ok- in other words go to a harder clutch and be replacing transmissions or replace clutches in fact a new clutch and flywheel for 400 at the parts store with a lifetime warranty

[SplitInfinity]

not to sound like a smart ass but stop launching hard. i put 122,000 miles on a STOCK clutch on a stg2 car and only reason i changed it is when i rebuilt the transmisison and it still looks ok- in other words go to a harder clutch and be replacing transmissions or replace clutches in fact a new clutch and flywheel for 400 at the parts store with a lifetime warranty

I suppose I could say the same about being a smart ass. I'm sure I probably could put 100k on a single clutch, but, really... why do you bother to drive a stage 2 car if you don't actually DRIVE it?

On the other hand, thanks for the input. I'd rather replace a clutch than a transmission, maybe I'll go stock again, although I've heard there are supposed to be some with springs that provide progressive clamp force - to be gentler on your transmission.

Not really sure at all now. Oh well.

[Justin 05 Sti]

Not really sure at all now. Oh well.

You've gotta pay to play. Try a different disc if you can afford it.

I'm not a total grandpa with my car but I don't launch it every time either.

[Hydrolix]

the stock WRX clutch IS a Exeddy stg 2 clutch.

I drive the piss out of my stg 2 WRX including launching hard during AutoX. I have 3 seasons of AutoX plus 105K miles of fun driving and I'm still on the original clutch.

You are doing something wrong to wear clutches out that fast. My guess is that you are too slow off the clutch pedal and are boosting hard while still slipping the clutch and thus burning that thing badly as you start/shift through the gears. I'm also willing to bet you downshift without rev matching.

You need your clutch disc engaged before pounding power through it or all you are doing is dumping your HP out on your clutch sanding it smooth instead of putting it to your wheels. If you drive like that with a harder clutch you are going to break your tranny or drive train.

Is this your first manual car? Honestly, the WRX is one of the hardest cars to drive smoothly...the lightened fly-wheel probably isn't helping.

Work on letting your clutch pedal out as fast as possible without dumping it on start or jerking the car as you shift up/down thru the rest of the gears. You'll be amazed at how much faster your car can go when you are fully boosting and not still slipping the clutch. If that pedal isn't all the way out long before you need to shift you are way off. Even in 1st.

Oh, and make sure you aren't riding the clutch pedal either.

[SplitInfinity]

Is this your first manual car? Honestly, the WRX is one of the hardest cars to drive smoothly...the lightened fly-wheel probably isn't helping.

Work on letting your clutch pedal out as fast as possible without dumping it on start or jerking the car as you shift up/down thru the rest of the gears. You'll be amazed at how much faster your car can go when you are fully boosting and not still slipping the clutch. If that pedal isn't all the way out long before you need to shift you are way off. Even in 1st.

Oh, and make sure you aren't riding the clutch pedal either.

You may be right. I don't ride the clutch once I'm in gear... but this is the first manual I personally own. I've been driving it for a few years now... but prior to this car I've only occasionally driven a stick here and there. I try to let it out fairly fast... but I also try to keep it smooth - maybe I'm erring on the side of smooth, while trying to push its acceleration.

I do generally have the peddle up well before shifting... but perhaps still not fast enough. I will work on that. I enjoy driving, but haven't exactly had the opportunity to take lessons from a rally driver. =)

Sounds like - stock = stage 2 (and keeping it organic / full surface will be gentler on my transmission), go back to the normal fly wheel... and work on shifting as fast as possible. Plus... I may have to look at some other options for boosting revs up, although that's probably a topic for another section (I will miss my near instant RPMs... thought I was doing well driving the lightened flywheel smoothly...).

Thanks for the input... if anyone has any other suggestions, or a pointer towards some good info on perfecting your manual driving technique... I'm open.

Also, is there anything towards boosting revs that I should have them do anyway while the clutch and flywheel are out? ...not that I need to drop a lot of cash on more car parts. ...but, might as well I guess if it saves me labor.

[DanC]

If there is anybody who can help you its Page ( http://www.kcsubaru.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=98) - of course, you may start going through motor mounts but hey, they're cheaper than clutches. lol

[SplitInfinity]

So, a little update. After reading up, and looking around at options...

It sounds like the Exedy Stage 1 clutch is the same as the stock clutch, except for having about 30% more clamping force. It is not a Stage 2 or a Stage 1 clutch, in a stock WRX.
Most of what I've seen suggests the Flywheel is 20lbs, although I've had at least one guy say it was something like 26lbs (I give it a possibility of being true because he did work at a Subaru dealership...).

I've been back and forth a bit, but I did buy this car to play around with and have fun driving, even if I can't afford to mod the heck out of it... I decided to try the Exedy Stage 1 clutch, and the Act StreetLite flywheel. Which should give me about 3.9 more pounds for inertia... and hopefully not kill my revs too much while giving closer to stock launching abilities.

I just placed the order today from Oakos. Once I get it broken in I'm going to talk to our friend Page... and see if I can't improve on my technique a little.

Decided to throw a short shifter in too for the hell of it... another toy I probably don't really need.

Also considering an Uppipe, which I've been told doesn't require tuning or anything to increase horse power / revs, have to do some research and look into that one. Not sure about the emisions effects, or if it's worth the few horse power you gain, a co-worker said it's usually about half the horse power the manufacturers claim. (A subject for another room)

Thanks for the input guys. Will keep ya posted on the new setup once I get it in, hopefully while the old clutch still has some grip left! ...now I just have to decide if I'm crazy enough to attempt installing it myself.

[cubedweller]

Save approximately $$$$.$$ for the inevitable if you're taking lessons from Page.

A stock 5MT interprets a Page-launch as being the equivalent of a first night in prison. If there's no stretch or slip, it will break...and it's not going to be the same thereafter.

[SplitInfinity]

Okay... now I'm a little scared and a little excited!

(I certainly don't need to be borrowing money for a new transmission! =) ...but, it sounds like a lot of fun.)